The streets around Cixian Temple, which enshrines Mazu, goddess of the sea, are named after the cardinal directions. Among them lies the unassuming Xiaobei Street (literally “Little North Street”), whose hidden charm surprises visitors who venture into its narrow lanes. On either side, weathered red-brick buildings, green corrugated metal panels, and the sleek black walls of new developments create a striking contrast—a snapshot of eras colliding. The winding and confined layout seems to whisper of the area’s once-vibrant past. Alleys like this may have once dotted the neighborhood, but with urban renewal they have gradually disappeared.
One notable structure at the entrance of Xiaobei Street near Shilin Roundabout is Defu Clinic, a red-brick western-style building, its façade retaining the intricate craftsmanship of the Japanese Taisho era during the colonial period. Behind it lies Chuanwu Alley, also known as Lane 22, Xiaobei Street. This passageway, which runs beneath residential buildings, emerged as a practical solution to allow local residents to easily move around the densely packed neighborhood.
In 2022, the winding alley was redesigned as part of the Taipei Design on Street Corners project and rebranded as the Exploring Peach Blossom Alley installation. Inspired by the imagery of peach blossoms, the installation uses neon lights and youthful materials like acrylic to infuse the lane with vibrant color and light. Visitors are invited to walk through this quiet, narrow alley and search for their own “lucky six-petaled peach blossom”.
If you’re exploring Shilin and want to trace history, consider dropping by Shilin Circle, where you’ll find numerous well-preserved historic buildings that still stand proudly. Meanwhile, others, such as the Shilin Civic Center, have been restored and revitalized, or, like Xiaobei Street, have been rejuvenated with a modern touch to embrace the new era.