Stepping off the bus and onto Zhiyu Road Section 1 feels like stepping back in time. Even though you're still in Taipei City, the streets here are quiet, with few pedestrians, though cars occasionally rush by. If you look for a sign saying “Yanshan New Village” on some corner, you may be disappointed. Perhaps because of the clandestine nature of its residents’ profession, Yanshan New Village has a rather more sparse historical record than other military dependents’ villages.
When the Nationalist government retreated to Taiwan in 1949, many civil servants came along. President Chiang Kai-shek resumed office in 1950 and set up the Shilin Official Residence, which turned Shilin into an important political hub. The Ministry of National Defense’s Secrets Bureau and its successor from 1955, the Intelligence Bureau, (both predecessors of the Military Intelligence Bureau) also set up offices in Shilin. Naturally, the bureau staff and their families settled nearby, leading to the development of twelve military dependents’ villages in the area.
Initially, Yanshan New Village was not officially classified as a military dependents’ village: residents simply settled near their workplace and built homes as needed. It wasn’t until later that the Military Intelligence Bureau formally designated it as such. The village’s architecture evolved over the years to meet changing needs, encapsulating the historical development and collective memory of its unique community. The most distinctive feature is its stone walls made of Qilian stone. Chosen for its affordability, fire resistance, and aesthetic appeal and the proximity of Qilian quarries, this durable material has ensured the walls remain intact to this day.
Three buildings on Lane 79 Zhiyu Road Section 1 were registered as historic structures in 2015. Currently fenced off, they await restoration and a future reopening, when they will offer a glimpse into the daily lives of the village’s original residents.